2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon

Marcel Lapierre is in the Morgan appellation of Beaujolais. The 30-acre estate has been in the Lapierre family for three generations and is now run by Mathieu Lapierre, who in 2005 joined his father, Marcel, an early adopter of the biodynamic, or organic system of vineyard management and wine production. Marcel was practicing organic winemaking in the early 1980s, several decades before most farmers or winemakers decided to stop using chemicals and practice traditional vineyard management. Lapierre Gamay vines are on average 45 years old. Marcel fully retired in 2010. The estate makes 8,000 cases of wine annually.

Morgon is considered one of the finest of the Beaujolais Cru appellations. It is also the second largest with 2,717 acres of vineyards. The appellation is in central Beaujolais south of Fleurie and is centered around Mont du Py, whose Côte du Py granite hillsides are home to some of the best Morgon vineyards. The Gamays made in Morgon are full-bodied and concentrated but less fruity than other Beaujolais Crus. Morgons are also known for their ability to age, unlike some other Beaujolais. The alcohol content is often relatively high and in some vintages the wines approach 14% alcohol. About 700,000 cases are produced annually.

The Gamay grape produces a light, versatile and food-friendly wine. It is best known for making Beaujolais Nouveau, but it is also grown in Loire and Tours. Thankfully the 14th C. Duke of Burgundy’s degree to ban the grape did not spread through all of France.