Collectable Washington Wines

WHY YOU SHOULD COLLECT WASHINGTON WINES

With 970 wineries, nearly all specializing in premium wines, Washington wines have become eminently collectable, and have an insider’s cachet for sommeliers, collectors and wine aficionados. They may be a little under the radar for some wine lovers, but they are well worth experiencing and sharing.

Wine reviewer James Suckling says that “Washington State is making some of the most exciting wines in America.” And Stephen Tanzer of Vinous wrote that in Washington  “quality has never been higher than it is today, so that the number of wines rating 90 points or more in my annual coverage is by a clear margin the highest to date.” He added that “Washington’s wines are still relative bargains compared to those of California, with many of them—reds and whites alike—offering outstanding value.”

Washington’s vineyards are in eastern Washington, where the hot, dry weather has always been excellent for crops such as wheat and apples. But the climate and the soil are also ideal for grapes, and in the 1950s pioneering winemakers planted vineyards in the Columbia Valley, Washington’s largest American Viticultural Area (AVA).  The vineyards thrived and by the 1970s such now famous wineries as Columbia Winery and Chateau Ste Michelle were producing both red and  white wines of distinction.

Today there are 14 AVAs in Washington. The most prestigious are Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Hills. Some 70 varieties of grapes are grown, but Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are the most frequently planted red grapes. Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc the most often planted whites.

Here are a few of Washington’s best and most iconic producers:

• Quilceda Creek is Washington’s most acclaimed winery. Its Cabernet Sauvignons have been earning awards and stellar ratings since the 1980s. Robert Parker has called the estate’s cuvées “prodigious, world class wines” and compared them to first growth Bordeaux. Alex Golitzin, Quilceda Creek founder and owner, was born in France but moved to the United States during WWII.  It is not surprising he became a vigneron. His uncle was Andre Tchelistcheff, a French-trained winemaker who was one of Napa Valley’s earliest crafters of fine wines.

• Cayuse is another widely admired Washington winery with a French connection. Founded in 1997 by Christophe Baron, then a young French winemaker who grew up in a winemaking family in Champagne, Cayuse is known for its big, delicious Syrahs that often come with fanciful names, such as Bionic Frog Syrah. Baron also owns Horsepower Vineyards, an estate where he uses Belgian draft horses instead of tractors. Baron’s wines earn excellent ratings and cult followings.  He is one of Washington’s most unorthodox and successful winemakers, a tradition buster with a gift for making hedonistic wines.

• Leonetti Cellar was the first winery in Washington  to earn out-of-state fame. It was founded in 1977 by Gary Figgins who was inspired to plant vineyards instead of wheat by the Italian immigrant farmers in his family. Robert Parker has written that “no one on earth makes Cabernets and Merlots with the quite the same panache as Gary Figgins…They are sexy, lush and boisterous.”

• Betz Family Winery was started in 1997 when Bob and Cathy Betz decided to make wine that reminded them of the Rhone wines they’d enjoyed as young travelers in Europe in the 1970s. Before starting their winery, Bob spent more than 20 years directing winemaking at Chateau Ste Michelle, and he is considered one of Washington’s most talented and distinguished winemakers. Though Bob and Cathy passed the estate on to new owners a few years ago, Bob remains consulting winemaker.  Betz Syrahs have earned scores of 98 points from Wine Advocate.

• Charles Smith managed rock bands in Europe before buying property in eastern Washington in 2001 and starting his own winery, where his tagline is “Washington wine is so….awesome.” An iconoclast who likes to come up with provocative names for his wines, a couple examples are Kung Fu Girl Riesling and The Velvet Devil Merlot, he also makes Syrahs and other wines under his Charles Smith K Vintners label that are built for cellaring. Food & Wine Magazine named him 2009 Winemaker of Year.  His wines have passionate fans.