2009 Jules Desjourneys Moulin-à-Vent

Jules Desjourneys is a new domain from a highly experienced fine wine distributor. For decades Fabien Duperray was an agent for many of the Côte d’Or’s premier producers. Then, in 2007, he was offered the chance to purchase a parcel of ancient vines in Moulin-a-Vent and Fleurie. He jumped at the opportunity and began devoting himself to running his new estate, which he named Domaine Jules Desjourneys. He farms entirely according to biodynamic principles and his yields are very low. The wines are whole-cluster fermented and during the maceration period Duperray’s approach is very hands-off. Reviewers have noted that the wines are built to age, which is unusual for Beaujolais. Duperray’s first commercial vintage was the 2007 bottling, and wine writers have been exceptionally complimentary. Wine Advocate described the wines like this: “Think serious, concentrated and teeth coating with extremely firm but ripe tannins and you have the essence of these remarkable wines.”

Moulin-à-Vent is a Beaujolais Cru appellation that takes its charming name from the only windmill, or moulin-à-vent, still in existence in Beaujolais. The picturesque windmill is several hundred years old and features prominently on the labels of some producers in the appellation. Moulin-à-Vent is located in the north central region of Beaujolais, and it includes 1,605 acres of vineyards. Many Beaujolais admirers consider it the “King” of the Beaujolais Crus, and Moulin-à-Vent wines are known for their richness, fullness and their ability to age. Like nearly all of Beaujolais, the grape grown here is Gamay. About 400,000 cases are produced annually.

The Gamay grape produces a light, versatile and food-friendly wine. It is best known for making Beaujolais Nouveau, but it is also grown in Loire and Tours. Thankfully the 14th C. Duke of Burgundy’s degree to ban the grape did not spread through all of France.