...layer upon layer of fig sauce, braised plum, cassis, cherry eau de vie and pastis glide along together, with notes of spice, ganache and graphite hanging in reserve.
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne is in Le Gres, in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation of France’s Rhone Valley. Though the estate traces its history back several generations, it has been owned since the early 20th century by the Daumen family, and today it is run by patriarch Jean-Paul Daumen. The 28-acre estate produces red and white wine, and its signature Chateauneuf-du-Papes Tradition, Reserve and Vieilles Vignes have in the last 15 years won rave reviews from critics, including Robert M. Parker Jr., who has given some of the vintages 100-pt scores. Parker has written that Daumen’s wines “are among some of the most glorious and longest-lived Chateauneuf-du-Papes in the village.”
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the appellation, is a large area of nearly 8,000 vineyard acres centered around the picturesque town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Located in southeastern France just north of the Avignon hills, the name of the appellation means “new castle of the pope” and it is a reference to the 14th century, when the Popes of Avignon built summer homes in the Southern Rhone Valley. Today the appellation is one of the most renowned in France and its terroir is known for layers of small pebbles, called “galets.” The stones in the soil are thought to help store heat and keep the soil warm, which helps ripen the grapes. The stones also help keep the soil from drying out in hot summer months. In 1923 Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a leader in establishing the idea that AOC wines in France should be made only with specified grapes, and the appellation allowed 13 grape varieties to be used. Since then the rules have been slightly modified to include several more allowable grapes. Red and white wines are produced, though in practice about 97% of all Châteauneuf –du-Papes are reds made with a blend of Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvedre, Muscardine, Syrah and Vaccarese. The red wines of this appellation are prized for being big, rich, spicy and full-bodied. White wines of the appellation are made with Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picpoul and Picardin. Whites are floral, fruity and relatively full-bodied.