1989 Olivier Leflaive Charmes-Chambertin

Olivier Leflaive was established in 1984 when Olivier Leflaive, a negociant, decided to make his own wine with help from his brother Patrick and his famous uncle Vincent, of Domaine Leflaive. Today the Puligny-Montrachet Olivier Leflaive domaine owns 30 acres of vineyards. There are Premier Cru parcels in Meursault and Chassange-Montrachet, as well as red and white village wines. Burgundy wine writer Clive Coates calls the domaine “recommended.”

Charmes-Chambertin is a 78-acre Grand Cru vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin that traditionally includes the acreage of nearby Mazoyeres-Chambertin. For nearly 200 years the growers of Mazoyeres have been legally allowed to sell their wines under the more famous name of Charmes-Chambertin, and virtually all of them do. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus, and it generally has an excellent reputation. The slope of the vineyard is gentle and the surface soil poor. But producers including Joseph Roty, Christian Serafin, Domaine Dujac, Faiveley and Joseph Drouhin are acclaimed for their Charmes Chambertin. Principal landholders are Camus, with 14.75 acres; Perrot-Minot, 4 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.