1998 Travaglini Gattinara, 1.5ltr

Travaglini is in the heart of the Gattinara appellation. Founded in the 1920 by Clemente Travaglini, the estate today is run by his granddaughter Cinzia Travaglini. Her husband Massimo Collauto is winemaker. The estate owns nearly 100 vineyard acres planted mostly to Nebbiolo, which is locally known as Spanna. Travaglini makes six wines, all from Nebbiolo. Of note is the estate’s distinctive bottle, which extends up from a broader than average base, then nips in slightly part way up, then broadens out again at the shoulder. The bottle was designed in 1958 by Clemente Travaglini who wanted a bottle that would catch sediment during pouring, eliminating the need for decanting. The bottle also is especially dark to minimize light during cellaring. Gambero Rosso has written that “the Travaglini family are universally acknowledged as one of the leading custodians of the style of Gattinara Nebbiolo.

Gattinara is a small DOCG within Piedmont. It is one of the seven DOCG appellations of Piedmont, meaning it shares an elevated, prestigious status with the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. Nebbiolo is the primary grape here, though it is called Spanno locally. Gattinara DOCG wines must be at least 90% Nebbiolo and have a minimum of three years of aging. Riservas require a minimum of four years of aging. The wines of Gattinara have excellent reputations, and at best they are elegant and full-bodied.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.