1999 Hubert Lignier Charmes-Chambertin

Hubert Lignier is a 5-acre domaine based in Morey-Saint-Denis, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. It was run by Hubert and his son Romain until Romain died of a brain tumor in 2004. The domaine is noted for its Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin and Clos de la Roche, but it also has Premier Cru parcels in Gevrey Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny, as well as numerous village parcels. Since Romain’s death, his widow, Kellen Lignier, has started a small domaine named Domaine Lucie and Auguste Lignier, after her children. Meanwhile Domaine Hubert Lignier, which was divided up after Romain’s death to give some of it to his widow, is now run by Hubert and his son Laurent.

Charmes-Chambertin is a 78-acre Grand Cru vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin that traditionally includes the acreage of nearby Mazoyeres-Chambertin. For nearly 200 years the growers of Mazoyeres have been legally allowed to sell their wines under the more famous name of Charmes-Chambertin, and virtually all of them do. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus, and it generally has an excellent reputation. The slope of the vineyard is gentle and the surface soil poor. But producers including Joseph Roty, Christian Serafin, Domaine Dujac, Faiveley and Joseph Drouhin are acclaimed for their Charmes Chambertin. Principal landholders are Camus, with 14.75 acres; Perrot-Minot, 4 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.