1996 Domaine d'Auvenay Bonnes Mares, 9-bottle Lot

Domaine d’Auvenay is the private domaine of one of Burgundy’s most extraordinary winemakers, the legendary Lalou Bize-Leroy. Wine reviewers including Robert M. Parker Jr. and Jancis Robinson rave about her wines, which are among the finest in Burgundy. Bize-Leroy’s family has been in the wine business in Burgundy since 1868, and in 1964 she took over her father’s negociant business. The family also owned one-half of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti for much of the 20th century. Bize-Leroy now owns a quarter of DRC and runs the acclaimed Domaine Leroy and the family’s negociant business. Domaine d’Auvenay is located in Meursault and includes 12 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligote. The average age of the vines is 65 years. Production is very limited, between 2,000 and 6,000 bottles annually. Because they are made by Madame Lalou, they are some of the most collectible wines in the world.

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.