Estimate
Bold and full of bread dough and apple, with a marmalade note, married to a big, firm structure, it still seems youthful. A brilliant Champagne that should develop beautifully.
Pure but reticent aromas of lemon, toast, truffle and minerals; rather Chassagne-like, but a bit blocked by sulfur. Big, thick and very deep, with the impressive ripeness and texture of the vintage but still quite young and a bit muted.
Very full and ripe, very 1990, only just Champagne rather than full-bodied white wine, this one. But then a top tracery of the sort of green refreshment... Quite rich & almost fat. You can see the Winston Churchill in this one all right...