1998 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

Bernard Dugat-Py is a 30-acre domaine in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. The Dugats have been winemakers in the region since the 17th century, and Bernard and his son Loic are the 12th and 13th generations to run the domain. Since 2004 the domain has been completely biodynamic. The domain produces Grand Crus, which are Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and Mazoyeres-Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus and Village wines. Dugat-Py’s wines are aged in a magnificent vaulted cellar that was built as part of an abbey in the 9th century. Recently the domaine has also made white wines, including a Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne. Clive Coates, the long-time wine critic and Burgundy authority, has noted that Bernard Dugat-Py “is a high-class establishment presided over by a charming couple.” The domain’s wines, he adds, “are very stylish and well-balanced.”

Mazis-Chambertin is a 22.4 acre Grand Cru vineyard near the village of Gevrey-Chambertin. The name Mazis is sometimes spelled with a “y” or without the final “s.” The soil is shallow and somewhat rocky, and the wine made from this vineyard is considered excellent. The legendary Lalou Bize of Maison Leroy is one of the smaller landholders with about .6 of an acre. There are some 30 proprietors with parcels in Mazis-Chambertin. The largest are Hospices de Beaune, with 4.38 acres; Bernard Dugat-Py, with 3.05 acres; and Joseph Faiveley, with 3 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.