1998 Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu

Comtes Lafon’s white Burgundies are among the most admired in the world. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that the domaine’s wines are “one of the reference points for white Burgundy.” Owned by the Lafon family and now run by Dominique Lafon, the domaine owns 34 acres of vineyards planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Based in Meursault, the domaine’s wines are Meursault, Montrachet and Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu. Parker has written that “low yields, ripe fruit, and a non-interventionist winemaking process are the norm at Lafon. The deep, cold cellars allow for a slow elevage….” Annual production is fewer than 5,000 cases.

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.