1996 Frederic Esmonin Griotte-Chambertin

Domaine Frederic Esmonin and Domaine des Estournelles are both owned and operated by Andre Esmonin and his son Frederic. The family is in Gevrey-Chambertin and they own or lease a total of 15-acres. Until the late 1980s most of what the family grew went to negociants such as Jadot, but starting in the early 1990s the Esmonins made very limited amounts of wine under their own labels. Today they have Grand Cru parcels in Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze, Bonnes-Mares and Chambertin. They have Premier Cru parcels in Gevrey-Chambertin. The Esmonins also run a small negociant business.

Griotte-Chambertin, sometimes spelled Griottes-Chambertin, is in Robert M. Parker Jr.’s words “a miniscule jewel of a vineyard” at just 6.7 acres. It is located across the road from Clos de Beze and produces only 800 cases of wine a year. The soil is extremely thin but the vineyard has excellent drainage, and wine writers all seem to agree that wines from Griotte-Chambertin are outstanding. Clive Coates writes that “Griotte has a poise and individuality that raises it above all but the very best Charmes.” Principal landholders are Ponsot/Domaine des Chezeaux, 2.23 acres; Rene Leclerc/Domaine des Chezeaux, 1.88 acres; and Joseph Drouhin, 1.33 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.