2006 Henri Boillot Volnay Les Fremiets

Maison Henri Boillot is owned and operated by Henri Boillot, a fifth-generation vigneron in the Côte d’Or and the proprietor of one of Burgundy’s most impressive estates. In 1984 Henri left the family estate to start his own negociant business. He later rejoined the estate and bought out his brother and sister, changing the name of the estate to reflect his sole ownership. His brother owns the similarly-named Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot. Maison Henri Boillot owns a total of 35 acres, mostly in premier cru vineyards in Volnay, Beaune, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Boillot does not use pesticides or chemicals in his vineyards, and vines are heavily pruned for low yields. The vineyards are evenly split between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Wine Advocate has noted that Boillot wines are “excellent representatives of the fundamental character one has come to expect” from the legendary premier cru vineyards of Volnay, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.