2005 Chateau de la Maltroye Santenay Gravières

Chateau de la Maltroye is a 36-acre estate in Chassange-Montrachet. The estate is named for the 18th century chateau that presides over the property, which since the 1940s has been owned by the Cornut family. Today the estate is run by Jean-Pierre Cornut and includes Grand Cru parcels in Batard-Montrachet, Premier Cru Blanc and Rouge parrcels in Chassange-Montrachet, and Premier Cru Blanc and Rouge parcels in Santenay. Clive Coates writes that since Jean-Pierre took over in the 1990s, “quality is now high here.”

Santenay is the southernmost appellation in the Côte d’Or. The appellation includes the communes of Santenay and Remigny and it has 813 vineyard acres. Both red and white wines can be made within the Santenay appellation, though in practice about 85% of the wine produced here is red. Pinot Blanc may be used in white wines, though most white Santenays are 100% Chardonnay. Though there are no Grands Crus, Santenay boasts 12 Premiers Crus. Among the best Premiers Crus vineyards are Clos de Tavannes, La Comme, Les Gravières and Le Passe Temps. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “good Santenays share a robust, tannic, earthy character with a bouquet that suggests cherry and strawberry fruit intertwined with the smell of sautéed almonds.” Clive Coates has noted that the white wines of Santenay “should be crisp, medium-bodied and fruity, less racy but fuller than Saint-Aubins, perhaps with a touch of spice…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.