1994 Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino

Tenuta di Sesta is an historic estate that in 2019 was honored by Gambero Rosso, the leading Italian wine journal, for producing what Gambero Rosso called its top red wine of the year. The wine was Tenuta di Sesta’s 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Duelecci Ovest Riserva, which Gambero Rosso described as “a wine of extraordinary elegance.” The estate is owned and operated by Giovanni Ciacci and his wife and children. The property has been in the Ciacci family since 1850, and vineyards have likely been on the property since the Roman era. The estate makes the Sangiovese wines of the Brunello di Montalcino appellations and red blends. Gambero Rosso notes that the estate “is justly famous for classic interpretations from the southern district of Montalcino and the area linking Sant’Angelo in Colle to Castelnuovo dell’Abate.”

Brunello di Montalcino is regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino is entirely Sangiovese. Montalcino itself is a picturesque, hill-top town not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine. Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.