1986 Dervieux-Thaize Cote Rotie La Viaillere Cuvee Reserve

Dervieux-Thaize was run by the inimitable Albert Dervieux for many decades. He was not only known for his classic Côte Rôties, but for nearly forty years he was also the president of the local growers’ association. His last vintage was in 1989, and he retired the next year, leaving his vineyards to his son-in-law René Rostaing, now one of the most admired vignerons in southern France. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote admiringly of Albert Dervieux-Thaize, calling his wines “the epitome of traditionally-made, long-lived, rustic” Côte Rôties. “There is no question that Dervieux-Thaize produced some of Côte Rôtie’s most muscular and rustic wines.” Rostaing’s several wine operations are now under the umbrella name of Domaine Rostaing, and they include his father-in-law’s former Côte Rôtie property, as well as vineyards in Condrieu and Languedoc. He is considered one of the star winemakers of the Rhone Valley.

The Northern Rhône Valley wine region hugs the Rhône River from Vienne in the north to Valence at its southern tip. The French call the region Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales, and it is divided into eight appellations. Along with its neighbor to the south, the Southern Rhone Valley, it is famous for its big, tannic, intensely concentrated wines. Syrah is the only red grape permitted in AOC wines from this sub-region, though the Syrah can be blended with the white wine grapes Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the regulations for each AOC. White wines are made from Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. Of the eight appellations in the north, the most admired wines tend to come from Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Hermitage, though there are certainly exceptional wines to be found in St. Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Peray, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas. Along with Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Rhône wines are among France’s best known and most collected wines. Red wines from these appellations are notable for their signature aromas of bacon and green olives, and for their depth. Robert M. Parker, a great champion of Rhone wines, has written that “the northern Rhône produces three of the greatest wines in the world – the white wines of Condrieu and the red wines of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.”

This grape is grown in milder climates and produces a medium-to full-bodied wine. It is also known as Shiraz, but should not be confused with Petit Sirah, which was developed by crossing Syrah with Peloursin.