1979 Louis Latour Mercurey

Louis Latour is one of Burgundy’s largest and most influential negociants and wine producers. The Latour family has been in the wine business in Burgundy since the 17th century when it started a maison and ran its own domaine for wine production. Today the maison is located in Beaune and the chateau is in Aloxe-Corton. Domaine Louis Latour has 71 acres of Grand Cru vineyards, making it the largest Grand Cru domaine in the Cote d’Or. The vineyards are located between Chambertin and Chevalier-Montrachet. In addition, Domaine Latour has another 50 acres of Premier Cru and other parcels. Domaine Louis Latour is best known for its Chardonnay, including the Grand Crus Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet les Demoiselles. The Domaine also makes several Grand Cru reds, including the much-admired Corton-Grancey. Louis Latour owns 741 acres in Ardeche, in the south of France, where the firm produces modestly-priced Chardonnay.

Mercurey, the appellation, includes the communes of Mercurey and Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu, and it is the largest of the Côte Chalonnaise appellations by size and production. Mercurey takes its name from the Roman god Mercurey, who was a winged messenger and the god of commerce. The appellation includes nearly 1,600 acres of vineyards, of which 95% is planted to Pinot Noir and 5% to Chardonnay. Though there are no Grand Crus, there are 32 Premier Cru vineyards. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote several decades ago that Mercurey was “the appellation of the future in the Côte Chalonnaise” because of relatively high quality wines offered at good value. Prices have crept up, but Clive Coates has noted more recently that “Mercurey is the most structured of the Chalonnaise reds wines…At its best, it is rich and ample though, with a certain earthiness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.