1988 Charles Mortet Chambertin

Domaine Charles Mortet et Fils based in Gevrey-Chambertin was started by Charles Mortet in the mid-20th century. By the late 1970s Mortet’s two sons were working alongside of him, working nearly 25 acres within 14 appellations , and the label changed to include the sons in the name. The domaine’s wines were very highly regarded during the last decades of the 20th century, and Clive Coates called Mortet “a man of passion as well as perfectionism…. (Mortet’s wines) are “full, generous, multi-dimensional, rich and expansive.” Mortet retired in 1991 and divided his estate between his sons, Denis and Thierry. Denis Mortet took his own life in 2006.

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.