1978 Luigi Dessilani Gattinara Riserva

Luigi Dessilani e Figlio is a 125-acre estate that has been in same family for nine generations. Today it is run by Enzio Lucca and his son Nicola. Located in Fara, the estate is known for making well-crafted wines from lesser-known appellations such as Gattinara, Ghemme, Fara and Sizzano. Nebbiolo is the predominant grape, though in the various denominations it is blended with such indigenous grapes as Vespolina, Bonarda, and Uva Rara. Gambero Rosso typically gives Dessilani wines 2 or 3 bicchieri, which are very good ratings. And the New York Times has noted that “Dessilani produces long-lived wines in the traditional style. They are increasingly hard to find because patient connoisseurs seeking flavor intensity and complexity buy them whenever they find them.”

Gattinara is a small DOCG within Piedmont. It is one of the seven DOCG appellations of Piedmont, meaning it shares an elevated, prestigious status with the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. Nebbiolo is the primary grape here, though it is called Spanno locally. Gattinara DOCG wines must be at least 90% Nebbiolo and have a minimum of three years of aging. Riservas require a minimum of four years of aging. The wines of Gattinara have excellent reputations, and at best they are elegant and full-bodied.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.