2004 Jean-Michel Guillon Santenay Les Bras

Domaine Jean-Michel Guillon was started in 1980 when Jean-Michel, whose background was in aeronautics, decided to move to Gevrey-Chambertin and become a winemaker. He slowly acquired vineyards and winemaking skills and today owns or leases 32 acres. He works with his eldest son, Alexis, and he also has two younger sons, which is why his recent vintages carry the label Domaine J-M Guillon et Fils. The domaine has Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Mazis-Chambertin, and Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-Saint-Denis. There are also village wines. Guide Hachette, one of France’s leading wine reviews, has noted that Guillon pere et fils “produce wines which are regularly mentioned in the Guide Hachette, often in the top few.”

Santenay is the southernmost appellation in the Côte d’Or. The appellation includes the communes of Santenay and Remigny and it has 813 vineyard acres. Both red and white wines can be made within the Santenay appellation, though in practice about 85% of the wine produced here is red. Pinot Blanc may be used in white wines, though most white Santenays are 100% Chardonnay. Though there are no Grands Crus, Santenay boasts 12 Premiers Crus. Among the best Premiers Crus vineyards are Clos de Tavannes, La Comme, Les Gravières and Le Passe Temps. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “good Santenays share a robust, tannic, earthy character with a bouquet that suggests cherry and strawberry fruit intertwined with the smell of sautéed almonds.” Clive Coates has noted that the white wines of Santenay “should be crisp, medium-bodied and fruity, less racy but fuller than Saint-Aubins, perhaps with a touch of spice…”

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.