2005 Dominique Laurent Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques

Dominique Laurent is a former pastry chef who started a small negociant business in Nuits-Saint-Georges, in Burgundy’s Cote d’Or, in the late 1980s. He produced his first vintages a few years later, and quickly developed a reputation for making very small quantities of excellent wine sourced from old vineyards. In 2006 Laurent made the leap from negociant to grower with the purchase of a few acres of vineyards. Today Domaine Laurent Pere et Fils owns 23 acres in Nuits-Saint-Georges. He is known for his extreme approach to “hands-off” winemaking, and for his habit of sometimes using “200% new oak,” meaning that one cuvee is sometimes transferred twice to new oak barrels. About 30,000 bottles are produced annually and his wines have earned cult status with some Burgundy collectors.

Clos St. Jacques is a 17.7-acre Premier Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. Most Burgundy experts consider Clos St. Jacques to often be of equal quality to the nearby Grand Crus Chambertin and Clos de Beze. When the vineyard rankings were made in the 1930s it was decided that only vineyards contiguous with Chambertin and Clos de Beze could be Grand Crus. Clos St. Jacques lies to the west of the Grand Crus, but is very well situated at the same elevation as Chambertin and it has soil similar to Chambertin’s. Clive Coates notes that Clos St. Jacques “can be exquisite; rich, ample, full-bodied and distinctive.” Principal landowners are Armand Rousseau, 5.6 acres; Sylvie Esmonin, 4.5 acres; and Bruno Clair, 2.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.