2005 Maison Champy Volnay Santenots

Maison Champy claims to be the oldest Burgundy negociant still in business. It was founded in 1720 and over the centuries it has owned or represented such prestigious appellations as the Clos de Tart Monopole and some prime Montrachet parcels. The Beaune-based business owns 15.6 acres of vineyards in Beaune, Clos Vougeot, Pommard and Savigny-Les-Beaune, from which it makes wines under its own domaine label. Champy also produces a range of wines as a negociant. Owned by the Meurgey family for nearly 300 years, it was sold to Louis Jadot in 1990 when the extended family could not reach agreement on how to proceed with the business. A few years later part of the business was bought back by the some family members, with Jadot keeping the lion’s share. Winemaker for the negociant is Dimitri Bazas, a Greek expat who learned Burgundian winemaking from Henri Boillot, among others. Bazas is considered a talented winemaker. Champy is admired for its adherence to traditional winemaking and estate management, and the wide range of wines offered.

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.