2021 Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini

Elvio Cogno is a 33-acre estate in the Langhe. The Cogno family history in the area dates back several centuries during which the Cognos always cultivated grapevines. By the mid-20 century the family was also running a beloved restaurant in La Morra and using their own grapes to make wine to serve at the restaurant. The wine was so popular that in the late 1950s Elvio Cogno left the restaurant business to make wine full time. He collaborated with La Marcarini winery in La Morra, and his debut commercial release was a 1961 Barolo. He went on to become one of the region’s most admired winemakers. In 1990 Cogno purchased an 18th century farmhouse and surrounding vineyards, updating both. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s daughter Nadia Cogno and her husband Valter Fissore. The estate produces Barolos and other Langhe wines that are highly praised by wine writers, including the influential Italian journal Gambero Rosso, which notes that “each wine (made at the estate) is better than the last.” Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that the estate’s wines “are consistently excellent to outstanding.” Cogno produces 80,000 bottles annually.

Barbaresco is one of the two most acclaimed DOCGs in Piedmont, the other being Barolo. Located just a few miles north of Barolo, Barbaresco is a small town of fewer than 700 people and 1,680 vineyard acres, making it less than half the size of the Barolo DOCG. The other communes in this DOCG of rolling hills are Neive and Treiso. As in Barolo, the DOCG requires that Barbaresco DOCG wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. By the late 20th century respected producers were making outstanding Nebbiolos, as well as Nebbiolo blends that do not carry the DOCG label. Barbaresco was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to a DCOG in 1980. DOCG Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of two years, with a minimum of one year in wood. Barbarescos are regarded as more subtle and refined than Barolos, and more approachable when young.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.