2004 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot, 3-bottle Lot

Domaine Meo-Camuzet owns or controls 38 acres in Vosne-Romanee, in Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. The estate was founded in the early 20th century when Etienne Camuzet, a politician from the Cote d’Or, started acquiring vineyards. His daughter passed them on to Jean Meo, a relative who worked for Charles de Gaulle. Until the 1980s much of the domaine was farmed by metayers, or sharecroppers, who gave part of what they produced to the domaine and kept the rest. In 1945 the young Henri Jayer began working Meo-Camuzet parcels in Richebourg, Vosne-Romanee, Les Brulees and Nuits-Meurgers. When Meo’s son Jean-Nicolas took over the estate’s operations in 1985, he worked closely with the legendary Jayer for three years, until Jayer retired in 1988. Jayer died in 2006, but his winemaking legacy is evident in Meo-Camuzet’s modern vintages. Today the estate produces Grands Crus, Premiers Crus and village wines.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.