2023 Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares

Domaine Dujac in Morey Saint Denis is relatively young by the standards of Burgundy estates. It was founded in 1967 when Louis Seysses, a food manufacturer who enjoyed good food and wine, bought an existing domaine so his son Jacques could try his hand at winemaking. Jacques had already apprenticed at other Burgundy estates, and Domaine Dujac’s first vintage was 1968. Dujac wines quickly earned acclaim and today they are, in the words of Burgundy expert Clive Coates, “intense, perfumed, silky-smooth and impeccably balanced.” The domaine remains a family operation which includes roles for Jacques’ wife, two sons and a daughter-in-law. The estate is comprised of 28 acres including prime parcels in the Grand Cru vineyards Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis. There are also parcels in Charmes-Chambertin, Bonnes-Mares, Echezeaux, Chambertin and Romanee-Saint-Vivant.

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.