2014 Hubert Lignier Griotte-Chambertin

Hubert Lignier is a 5-acre domaine based in Morey-Saint-Denis, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. It was run by Hubert and his son Romain until Romain died of a brain tumor in 2004. The domaine is noted for its Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin and Clos de la Roche, but it also has Premier Cru parcels in Gevrey Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny, as well as numerous village parcels. Since Romain’s death, his widow, Kellen Lignier, has started a small domaine named Domaine Lucie and Auguste Lignier, after her children. Meanwhile Domaine Hubert Lignier, which was divided up after Romain’s death to give some of it to his widow, is now run by Hubert and his son Laurent.

Griotte-Chambertin, sometimes spelled Griottes-Chambertin, is in Robert M. Parker Jr.’s words “a miniscule jewel of a vineyard” at just 6.7 acres. It is located across the road from Clos de Beze and produces only 800 cases of wine a year. The soil is extremely thin but the vineyard has excellent drainage, and wine writers all seem to agree that wines from Griotte-Chambertin are outstanding. Clive Coates writes that “Griotte has a poise and individuality that raises it above all but the very best Charmes.” Principal landholders are Ponsot/Domaine des Chezeaux, 2.23 acres; Rene Leclerc/Domaine des Chezeaux, 1.88 acres; and Joseph Drouhin, 1.33 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.