2019 Maison Harbour Meursault Charmes

Maison Harbour in Savigny-les-Beaune makes Premier Cru and villages Burgundy in a traditional style, though the maison’s backstory is anything but traditional. In a region where maisons and domaines typically are held in the same family for generations, Maison Harbour is a new producer started only a few years ago by a young Canadian/American couple with no previous winemaking experience and no family background in Burgundy or any other winemaking region. Colleen and Nicholas Harbour’s leap into the storied world of Burgundian winemaking started in 2011, when the couple quit their banking jobs in Luxembourg and enrolled in viticulture programs in Beaune. To support themselves they worked at a local negociant and domaines, and they bought grapes from local growers, which was itself an accomplishment considering their lack of history in the area. Remarkably, they were able to purchase grapes from Premier Cru parcels in Pommard, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chassange-Montrachet, as well as villages grapes from Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée. They make their wine in their garage and their very limited production is available normally only through a mailing list.

Les Charmes, at 78 acres, is Meursault’s largest Premier Cru vineyard. Like its neighboring Premier Crus, Les Genevrieres and Les Perrieres, is is south of the commune of Meursault and very close to Puligny-Montrachet. Since Meursault lacks a Grand Cru, Meursault’s reputation for excellence is based on the Premier Crus, particularly the whites. Les Charmes abuts Puligny-Montrachet. Burgundy writer Clive Coates writes that “there is an attractive, soft flowery character to a Charmes: peach blossom, delicately nutty, gently honeyed.”

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.