2021 Maison Harbour Meursault Le Limozin

Maison Harbour in Savigny-les-Beaune makes Premier Cru and villages Burgundy in a traditional style, though the maison’s backstory is anything but traditional. In a region where maisons and domaines typically are held in the same family for generations, Maison Harbour is a new producer started only a few years ago by a young Canadian/American couple with no previous winemaking experience and no family background in Burgundy or any other winemaking region. Colleen and Nicholas Harbour’s leap into the storied world of Burgundian winemaking started in 2011, when the couple quit their banking jobs in Luxembourg and enrolled in viticulture programs in Beaune. To support themselves they worked at a local negociant and domaines, and they bought grapes from local growers, which was itself an accomplishment considering their lack of history in the area. Remarkably, they were able to purchase grapes from Premier Cru parcels in Pommard, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chassange-Montrachet, as well as villages grapes from Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée. They make their wine in their garage and their very limited production is available normally only through a mailing list.

Meursault is one of the trio of famous Chardonnay producing appellations in the Côte d’Or. Although both red and white wines are allowed to be produced in the Meursault appellation, 98% of Meursault is Chardonnay. With a total of 2,500 acres of vineyards, there are no Grands Crus but 325 acres of Premiers Crus, which are divided into 13 main vineyards. As wine writers have often noted, Meursault’s fame is based on its Premiers Crus, including the prestigious Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes. Because the water table is low in Meursault, many producers have cellars here, including Comte Lafon and Jean-Francois Coche-Dury. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote “the Premiers Crus, as well as the finest Villages Meursaults from the top vineyards, are among the easiest drinking white burgundies in the world. Why? High-quality Meursault is opulent, almost unctuous, with a fatness and a juicy, succulent, buttery, hazelnut and apple, peach-like fruitiness that often roars from the glass.”

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.