2005 Frédéric Magnien Clos de Vougeot

Maison Frederic Magnien is a negociant in Morey-St.-Denis, in Burgundy. Frederic Magnien grew up in the wine business working beside his father, Michel, of Michel Magnien. But in 1995 Frederic started making wines under his own name with fruit purchased from nearby vineyards. His large portfolio of wines includes many Grand Crus such as Charmes-Chambertin, Chambertin Close de Beze, Mazoyeres Chambertin, Latricieres-Chambertin, Echezeaux, Bonnes Mares, Grand Echezeaux and Richebourg. Magnien also produces premier crus and white wines, including the Grand Cru Montrachet. Robert M. Parker Jr. has noted that “Frederic Magnien typifies the new style negociant ferreting out fruit from exceptional parcels…(he) insists on an active role in the vineyards and control of the harvest.” The result, Parker concludes, is that “literally dozens of outstanding red Burgundies that until a few years ago did not exist now enter the market through this address.”

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.