2021 Dominique Lafon Volnay

Dominique Lafon is managing director of Domaine des Comtes Lafon, one of Burgundy’s most distinguished estates. But since 2008 Dominique has also been producing very limited production wines under his own label. Though his company is officially a negociant, most of the Dominique Lafon wines are domaine bottlings from vineyards owned or leased by Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Dominique Lafon offers Premier Cru and village whites from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, and Premier and village reds from Volnay. Vinous has noted that Dominque Lafon’s style with his own label is “a little bit more laid back and restrained” in comparison to the traditional style of Comtes Lafon. Vinous added that Dominique’s “first vintages are quite promising.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.