1998 Mount Mary Lilydale Pinot Noir

Mount Mary Vineyard is in Lilydale in the Yarra Valley. It was founded in 1971 by John and Mary Middleton. John was a physician with an interest in wine and though he died in 2006, the estate is still run by his son and grandchildren. The estate makes red and white blends, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Quintet is a red Bordeaux style blend and Triolet is a white Bordeaux style blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle.

Victoria is one of Australia’s smallest and coolest wine regions, yet one of the nation’s most dynamic and quality-oriented. Unlike many of Australia’s wine regions, which include many large, industrial producers, most Victoria producers are small, independently owned and crush fewer than 25 tons of grapes per year. With more than 600 wineries, Victoria has more producers than any other state, though it ranks third in production. Winemaking started in Victoria in the 1850s when Swiss immigrant Hubert de Castella recognized the area’s winemaking potential. There are many climates and topographies in Victoria, from dry, irrigated inland terroirs to cooler, higher regions. Top sub-appellations include Heathcote, Rutherglen and the Yarra Valley. Shiraz and Chardonnay are the principal grapes grown, though Viognier, Pinot Noir and Tannant are also grown. Of special note is the region’s history with sweet dessert wines made of Muscat. Some are called “Tokay” and are made from the Muscadelle grape. Red dessert, Madeira-style wines are also produced.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.