2007 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche

Hubert Lignier is a 5-acre domaine based in Morey-Saint-Denis, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. It was run by Hubert and his son Romain until Romain died of a brain tumor in 2004. The domaine is noted for its Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin and Clos de la Roche, but it also has Premier Cru parcels in Gevrey Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny, as well as numerous village parcels. Since Romain’s death, his widow, Kellen Lignier, has started a small domaine named Domaine Lucie and Auguste Lignier, after her children. Meanwhile Domaine Hubert Lignier, which was divided up after Romain’s death to give some of it to his widow, is now run by Hubert and his son Laurent.

Clos de la Roche is a 41-acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Morey St.-Denis appellation in the Cotes de Nuits, in northern Burgundy. The tiny village of Morey St.-Denis is just south of Gevrey-Chambertin and Clos de Roche is considered the appellation’s most superior Grand Cru. The vineyard’s elevation ranges from 270 to 300 meters, and its soil is extremely rocky with excellent drainage. The soil is largely limestone, and in some places it is barely a foot deep. Writer Clive Coates calls Clos de Roche “the classiest of the Morey Grand Crus.” The largest landholders are Ponsot with 8.35 acres; Dujac, 4.88 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.7 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.