2004 Frédéric Magnien Chambertin Clos de Beze

Maison Frederic Magnien is a negociant in Morey-St.-Denis, in Burgundy. Frederic Magnien grew up in the wine business working beside his father, Michel, of Michel Magnien. But in 1995 Frederic started making wines under his own name with fruit purchased from nearby vineyards. His large portfolio of wines includes many Grand Crus such as Charmes-Chambertin, Chambertin Close de Beze, Mazoyeres Chambertin, Latricieres-Chambertin, Echezeaux, Bonnes Mares, Grand Echezeaux and Richebourg. Magnien also produces premier crus and white wines, including the Grand Cru Montrachet. Robert M. Parker Jr. has noted that “Frederic Magnien typifies the new style negociant ferreting out fruit from exceptional parcels…(he) insists on an active role in the vineyards and control of the harvest.” The result, Parker concludes, is that “literally dozens of outstanding red Burgundies that until a few years ago did not exist now enter the market through this address.”

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.