2016 Georges Vernay Le Pied de Samson Viognier

Domaine Georges Vernay is a pioneer of the Condrieu appellation, and Georges himself is considered the region’s elder statesman. Georges, now in his 90s and retired, took over his father’s farm in 1953 and turned what had been a general farm into a domaine dedicated to grapes. Even as he was planting grapes, many of his neighbors were uprooting theirs. The terraced, hillside farmlands of Condrieu are difficult to work, and during the mid-20th century farming fell out of favor with the young. But Georges Vernay bought additional acreage, promoted the appellation and promoted his wines. He became president of the local growers’ association and by the late 1970s Condrieu was once again an appellation of note. Georges retired in 1996 turning his estate over to his daughter Christine and her husband Paul Amsellem. The 55-acre estate is farmed organically and grows Viognier and Syrah. Although the Condrieu appellation is known for its white wines, Domaine Georges Vernay also produces red wines that impress reviewers.

The Northern Rhône Valley wine region hugs the Rhône River from Vienne in the north to Valence at its southern tip. The French call the region Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales, and it is divided into eight appellations. Along with its neighbor to the south, the Southern Rhone Valley, it is famous for its big, tannic, intensely concentrated wines. Syrah is the only red grape permitted in AOC wines from this sub-region, though the Syrah can be blended with the white wine grapes Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the regulations for each AOC. White wines are made from Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. Of the eight appellations in the north, the most admired wines tend to come from Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Hermitage, though there are certainly exceptional wines to be found in St. Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Peray, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas. Along with Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Rhône wines are among France’s best known and most collected wines. Red wines from these appellations are notable for their signature aromas of bacon and green olives, and for their depth. Robert M. Parker, a great champion of Rhone wines, has written that “the northern Rhône produces three of the greatest wines in the world – the white wines of Condrieu and the red wines of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.”

This is a full-bodied white variety has plenty of natural aromatics such as peach and violets. It’s a low yielding fruit, so it is grown for its taste over its economics. Viognier is considered an ancient grape and an early favorite of the Roman emperors.