2009 Maison Champy Clos de Vougeot

Maison Champy claims to be the oldest Burgundy negociant still in business. It was founded in 1720 and over the centuries it has owned or represented such prestigious appellations as the Clos de Tart Monopole and some prime Montrachet parcels. The Beaune-based business owns 15.6 acres of vineyards in Beaune, Clos Vougeot, Pommard and Savigny-Les-Beaune, from which it makes wines under its own domaine label. Champy also produces a range of wines as a negociant. Owned by the Meurgey family for nearly 300 years, it was sold to Louis Jadot in 1990 when the extended family could not reach agreement on how to proceed with the business. A few years later part of the business was bought back by the some family members, with Jadot keeping the lion’s share. Winemaker for the negociant is Dimitri Bazas, a Greek expat who learned Burgundian winemaking from Henri Boillot, among others. Bazas is considered a talented winemaker. Champy is admired for its adherence to traditional winemaking and estate management, and the wide range of wines offered.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.