1987 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Beaumonts

Domaine Henri Jayer in Vosne-Romanee earned its reputation as one of the stars of Burgundy under the tutelage of the late Henri Jayer, who died in 2006. Though the domaine is only about 20 acres in size, it produces rich, opulent wines that impress collectors and wine writers. Jayer himself became a winemaker almost by accident. During WWII he was asked to take care of the vineyards of M. Camuzet, then mayor of Vosne. He later earned a degree in viticulture at the University of Dijon and became the winemaker for two of his brothers, Georges and Lucien. Henri Jayer’s wines began earning attention in the late 1970s when he changed in vinification methods and began de-stemming the grapes, as well as using new oak. He also quit filtering his wines. Today the domaine is run by Emmanuel Rouget, Jayer’s nephew.

Les Beaux Monts is a 28.6-acre Premier Cru vineyard in the Vosne-Romanee appellation of Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. It is on the northern edge of the appellation, bordering Flagey-Echezeaux. The vineyard has a southern exposure, and the soil is part clay and marl. It is one of the largest of Vosne-Romanee’s Premier Crus. Clive Coates calls Les Beaux Monts “a nice big wine, but nonetheless perfumed, full of finesse, even lush.”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.