1996 Denis Mortet Chambertin

Domaine Denis Mortet owns or leases 34 acres in Gevrey-Chambertin, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. Until 1991 the estate was known as Charles Mortet et Fils. But when Denis and his brother Thierry divided the domaine in 1991, Denis used his own name on his wines and acquired additional vineyards. Today the estate includes Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. Denis Mortet took his own life in 2006 and the estate is now owned and operated by his wife Laurence and son Arnaud. Under Denis the estate had a reputation for excellence, and writer Clive Coates has noted that Arnaud is following in his father footsteps. In 2008 Coates wrote that “fine 2005s were found” at the estate.

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.