2014 Pietradolce Etna Bianco

Pietradolce was founded in 2005 by brothers Mario and Michele Farro, who purchased 31 acres of historic vineyards in Solicchiata on the northern side of Mt. Etna. The vineyards are notable for their elevation, at 2,600 feet above sea level, and because many of their vines are pre-phylloxera dating to the late 19th century. With vineyards of sand, lava and gravel, the brothers choose to grow only grapes indigenous to the Mt. Etna region. Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Carricante are the primary grapes at Pietradolce. The estate makes red, white and a rosé. Gambero Rosso calls Pietradolce “one of the benchmarks of Etna territory…Elegant, with masterfully dosed oak, and well-judged extraction, their wines, from Nerello or Carricante, are unmistakable products of Etna and vintage.” In late 2015 Wine Advocate’s reviewer wrote that “Pietradolce is my new Etna darling. This estate has always been on my radar, but the wines have never tasted as good as they do now.” Some 24,000 bottles are made annually.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and, with its 329,000 vineyard acres, Italy’s largest wine region by acreage and the quantity of wine produced. Nevertheless, only 2.1% of all Sicilian wine is DOC, or wine made according to appellation standards. Until the 1970s Sicilian wine grapes either went to make Marsala, the sweet dessert wine introduced by 18th century British wine merchants, or to cooperatives that specialized in bulk wine production. But in 1968 Sicily was awarded its first DOC, which was the Etna DOC on the southern slopes of Mt. Etna, and today there are 19 DOCs. Along with the Maremma on Tuscany’s western coast, Sicily is considered the most exciting winemaking region in Italy. Longtime family agricultural estates are being turned into high quality commercial wineries, and because land prices are low compared to other parts of Italy, enterprising young winemakers and viticulturalists – many of whom practice organic and sustainable farming – have started wineries in Sicily. Marsala is still produced, and the Marsala business is one reason why 60% of Sicily’s vineyards are planted to Catarratto, the white grape used as a base for Marsala. But dry white wines are made from Inzolia, Malvasia, Zibbio and Chardonnay. But it is Sicily’s big, complex red wines that are grabbing the attention of wine enthusiasts. Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s most common red grape, and it produces rich, somewhat spicy wines. Other red grapes are Nerello Mascalese, Frappato and French varietals.