2019 Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares

Bruno Clair founded his 56-acre domaine in Marsannay, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits, in 1979. He is the son of Bernard Clair and the grandson of Joseph Clair, who founded the celebrated Domaine Clair-Dau in 1919. Since striking out on his own more than 30 years ago, Bruno Clair has added vineyards to the domaine, which now includes Grand Crus in Chambertin and Corton-Charlemagne. The domaine also has Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, including the monopole Clos du Fonteny, and in Savigny-les-Beaune. The estate’s flagship wines are its Clos de Beze, Bonnes-Mares and Corton-Charlemagne, though it also makes numerous, well-reviewed red, white and rose village wines. Clive Coates calls Clair “a meticulous winemaker, anxious above all for purity and elegance….This is now one of the top domaines in Burgundy.”

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.