2013 Brovia Barolo Villero, 3-bottle Lot

Fratelli Brovia was the name used during the mid-20th century by the Piedmont estate that now calls itself simply Brovia. The 40-acre estate in Castiglione Falletto was founded in 1863 by the Brovia family and has been owned by them ever since. Generations of siblings have always run the estate, and it is today it is run by sisters Elena and Cristina Brovia, along with Elena’s husband Alex Sanchez. Brovia grows Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera and a few other indigenous grapes. It produces about 60,000 bottles a year and is especially admired for its Barolo. Gambero Rosso notes that “Brovia’s wines have earned a permanent place on Langhe’s Mount Olympus, above all for their unique and distinctive style…The Barolos are peerless…”

Barolo is one of Italy’s greatest wine appellations. In fact many cognoscenti of Italian wines consider Barolo to be the apex of Italian winemaking. Barolo is sometimes referred to as “the king of wines, and the wine of kings” partly because until the mid-19th century Piedmont was owned by the noble House of Savoy, the historic rulers of northwestern Italy. And the Savoys had a taste for Nebbiolo. Nestled into the rolling hills of Langhe, the Barolo DOCG includes 11 communes, one of which is the town of Barolo. There are 4,200 vineyard acres in the appellation and since the late 19th century growers have tried to identify their best vineyards. By marketing some vineyards as better quality than others, Barolo producers have followed the Burgundian custom of making single vineyard, or “cru” vineyard bottlings. As in neighboring Barbaresco, the Barolo DOCG requires that wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. Barolo was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to DOCG status in 1980. Barolos must be aged at least three years, at least two of those years in wood. Barolos are tannic and robust and generally need at least five years to soften into complex, earthy wines.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.