2017 Domaine de Montille Pommard Les Cras

Domaine de Montille is the Volnay estate of the Montille family, which traces its roots to the 17th century. In modern times the estate was revived by Hubert Montille, the family patriarch who, though trained as a lawyer, began making wine in 1947. Rather than selling his cuvee to negociants, he bottled his own, a rarity at the time. Today the estate is run by Hubert’s son Etienne, also a lawyer with extensive viticulture experience, with help from his sister Alix. Hubert died in 2014. The 60-acre estate includes Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot, Corton and Corton-Charlemagne, as well as Premier Crus in Vosne-Romanee, Pommard, Volnay, Beaune and Puligny-Montrachet. Clive Coates calls Domaine de Montille a “great Volnay estate, well-known for its policy of minimal chaptalisation. This makes for very pure wines….”

Pommard is a relatively large appellation of 1,655 vineyard acres just a few miles south of Beaune. Though it has no Grands Crus, Pommard’s 28 Premiers Crus are generally well regarded. The appellation produces only red wine, and wine writers often note that despite Pommard’s proximity to both Beaune and Volnay, its wines are very different from the Pinot Noirs produced in neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that “The top Pommards are full-bodied, chunky, muscular, fleshy wines that impress one more for their power and expansive, mouth filling texture than for pure finesse.” The most famous Premiers Crus are Les Epenots and Les Rugiens.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.