2005 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault Clos des Mouches Rouge

Henri Germain et Fils is in Meursault, in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. The family operation owns or leases 19 acres, and its very limited production Meursaults and Montrachets have a cult following among French collectors. The domaine was founded in 1973 when Henri started making his own wine. Now his son Jean-Frederic has taken over the winemaking. Henri Germain produces the Premier Crus Meursaults Les Charmes and Les Perrieres, and the Premier Cru blanc Chassange-Montrachet Morgeot. Also produced are several village whites and reds, including the red monopole Meursault Clos des Mouches. Henri’s wife is from the Pillot family of Chassange, and another of his sons is Benoit Germain of Chateau de Chorey-les-Beaune. Clive Coates has written that “the Germains are always happy to let nature take its course. They don’t bottle for 18 months. This is a good source.”

Meursault is one of the trio of famous Chardonnay producing appellations in the Côte d’Or. Although both red and white wines are allowed to be produced in the Meursault appellation, 98% of Meursault is Chardonnay. With a total of 2,500 acres of vineyards, there are no Grands Crus but 325 acres of Premiers Crus, which are divided into 13 main vineyards. As wine writers have often noted, Meursault’s fame is based on its Premiers Crus, including the prestigious Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes. Because the water table is low in Meursault, many producers have cellars here, including Comte Lafon and Jean-Francois Coche-Dury. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote “the Premiers Crus, as well as the finest Villages Meursaults from the top vineyards, are among the easiest drinking white burgundies in the world. Why? High-quality Meursault is opulent, almost unctuous, with a fatness and a juicy, succulent, buttery, hazelnut and apple, peach-like fruitiness that often roars from the glass.”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.