2014 Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques

Bruno Clair founded his 56-acre domaine in Marsannay, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits, in 1979. He is the son of Bernard Clair and the grandson of Joseph Clair, who founded the celebrated Domaine Clair-Dau in 1919. Since striking out on his own more than 30 years ago, Bruno Clair has added vineyards to the domaine, which now includes Grand Crus in Chambertin and Corton-Charlemagne. The domaine also has Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, including the monopole Clos du Fonteny, and in Savigny-les-Beaune. The estate’s flagship wines are its Clos de Beze, Bonnes-Mares and Corton-Charlemagne, though it also makes numerous, well-reviewed red, white and rose village wines. Clive Coates calls Clair “a meticulous winemaker, anxious above all for purity and elegance….This is now one of the top domaines in Burgundy.”

Clos St. Jacques is a 17.7-acre Premier Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. Most Burgundy experts consider Clos St. Jacques to often be of equal quality to the nearby Grand Crus Chambertin and Clos de Beze. When the vineyard rankings were made in the 1930s it was decided that only vineyards contiguous with Chambertin and Clos de Beze could be Grand Crus. Clos St. Jacques lies to the west of the Grand Crus, but is very well situated at the same elevation as Chambertin and it has soil similar to Chambertin’s. Clive Coates notes that Clos St. Jacques “can be exquisite; rich, ample, full-bodied and distinctive.” Principal landowners are Armand Rousseau, 5.6 acres; Sylvie Esmonin, 4.5 acres; and Bruno Clair, 2.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.