2011 Saddleback Cellars Barrel Select Albariño

Saddleback Cellars in Oakville is owned and operated by Napa Valley winemaker Nils Venge, considered one of the best winemakers in the region. Venge and his father-in-law bought the 15-acre property in 1976 but they didn’t produce their first Saddleback Cellars label wine until 1983, when they released their 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon. Venge was busy during those years as winemaker or vineyard manager for Charles Krug, Sterling Vineyards, Villa Mount Eden and Groth, where his 1985 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve earned 100 pts from Robert M. Parker Jr. It was the first time Parker had awarded a California wine with a perfect score. Saddleback focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon, but also produces Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Sangiovese and blends. It also produces Zinfandel and a portfolio of white wines.

Carneros AVA, also known as Los Carneros, is at the southern end of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys at the top of the San Francisco Bay. The 8,000 vineyard acres are mostly planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which thrive in the district’s cool, marine climate. Carneros became an AVA in 1983 and it has attracted foreign wine companies along with local producers. It has been especially appealing to European producers of sparkling wines including the giant Spanish cava producers Codorniu and Frexinet, and the French Champagne house Taittinger. Codorniu in Carneros is called Artesa, and Frexinet’s Carneros brand is Gloria Ferrer. Taittinger calls its Carneros winery Domaine Carneros. The European producers also make still wines in Carneros. ?

On the Iberian peninsula, one grape belongs to two different countries and is called by two different names: Albarino in Spain, Alvarhino in Portugal. Either way, it makes an underrated white wine that is akin to Riesling and fabulous with seafood and shellfish.