2004 Domaine Claude Dugat Griotte-Chambertin

Owned by the Claude Dugat family, this relatively small domain for many years sold its wines to other negociants. But in recent years the Gevrey-Chambertin-based domain started bottling under its own label and it has quickly won acclaim for its Chambertin. With about 15 acres planted to Pinot Noir, the estate produces highly limited quantities of wine, usually about 3,000 to 5,000 bottles. Robert M. Parker Jr. calls the domaine’s wines “modern-styled Burgundies because they can be drunk young, but they age well.”

Griotte-Chambertin, sometimes spelled Griottes-Chambertin, is in Robert M. Parker Jr.’s words “a miniscule jewel of a vineyard” at just 6.7 acres. It is located across the road from Clos de Beze and produces only 800 cases of wine a year. The soil is extremely thin but the vineyard has excellent drainage, and wine writers all seem to agree that wines from Griotte-Chambertin are outstanding. Clive Coates writes that “Griotte has a poise and individuality that raises it above all but the very best Charmes.” Principal landholders are Ponsot/Domaine des Chezeaux, 2.23 acres; Rene Leclerc/Domaine des Chezeaux, 1.88 acres; and Joseph Drouhin, 1.33 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.