2016 Olivier Bernstein Clos de Vougeot

Olivier Bernstein is a small negociant in Beaune. It was created in 2007 by Olivier Bernstein, who gave up a career in music management to pursue winemaking. He earned a degree in viticulture in Beaune, then in 2002 purchased a 20-acre wine estate in Roussillon, where he made wines under the Mas de la Deveze label. But his interest in Burgundy took him back to Beaune, where he now makes very limited amounts of Grand and Premier Crus from parcels in Chambertin, Bonnes-Mares, Mazis-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche, Clos Vougeot, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.