2015 Jeff Cohn (JC Cellars) Iron Hill Zinfandel

JC Cellars was the label formerly used by Jeff Cohn, of Jeff Cohn Cellars. Jeff Cohn Cellars is in downtown Oakland, at Jack London Square. The improbable urban location of this small, family-run enterprise is as surprising as the story behind Jeff Cohn Cellars. Jeff Cohn was in the hospitality industry until his 30s, when he became interested in winemaking. A few internships and a master’s degree in agricultural chemistry later, he got a job at Rosenblum Cellars. He began his own label in 1996, making Zinfandel, and in 2014 moved his operation to downtown Oakland. Cohn works with his wife, Alexandra, and assistant winemaker John Bruening. He sources grapes from throughout California and specializes in Rhone style wines and Zinfandel. Wine writers have been complimentary, with Wine Advocate often rating the wines in the mid to high 90s. Robert M. Parker has noted that Cohn is “one of my favorite producers year in and year out who still seems to fly under many people’s radar…. He has the Midas touch, it is clearly obvious. Anyone serious about wine should have some of his vinous elixirs in their cellar.”

Sonoma County is not an AVA, but it is a commonly used informal designation for wines made outside of more specific AVAs within Sonoma, which is a large wine producing region just west of Napa Valley. Though Sonoma is often overshadowed by its glamorous neighbor Napa Valley, it has a long history of wine production. The area specialized in jug wine until the mid-20th century, when Sonoma producers took a cue from Napa and started improving quality. Unlike Napa, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king, Sonoma specialized in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, though excellent Cabs are produced too. There are at present 16 AVAs within Sonoma County, and, like much of the West Coast of the United States, new AVAs are created in Sonoma County with regularity. Some Sonoma appellations, such as the Russian River Valley, are renowned for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Zinfandel is a black-skinned grape, but 85% of the wine produced is made into a rosy “White Zinfandel.” Red Zin is far more complex and bold, while still being light-bodied. It grows in popularity as winemakers continue to experiment with new styles and blends.