2012 Lucien Le Moine Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains

Lucien le Moine is a rarity in Burgundy. It is a garagiste producer of Grand Cru and Premier Cru Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a cult reputation for highly individualistic wines. Its founders and owners are the husband and wife team of Mounir Saouma and Rotem Brakir, who started the label only in 2000. Saouma became fascinated with Burgundy while working in a Trappist Monastery in Jerusalem, and later studied oenology in Montpellier, France. His wife Rotem comes from a cheese-making family and she studied agriculture and oenology in Dijon. The couple owns or leases no vineyards of their own but they purchase small batches of juice or very young cuvee from outstanding Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in the Cote d’Or. The couple does all the work themselves and produce, at most, 30,000 bottles a year. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “the richness and complexity of (their wines) are stunning.”

Puligny-Montrachet, according to Burgundy writer Clive Coates, “is the greatest white wine commune on earth.” Though other reviewers are not always as extravagant in their praise, there is no question that the appellation’s wines are generally the most lauded Chardonnays in the world. Puligny-Montrachet the commune is tiny, with fewer than 500 residents. Yet the appellation named for it has 1,250 acres of vineyards, including 76 acres of Grands Crus and 247 acres of Premiers Crus. Its four famous Grands Crus are Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. There are 26 Premiers Crus completely or partly in the appellation. The Premiers and Grands Crus vineyards are on slopes that eventually rise to 1,300 feet and become total rock. In his admiration for this appellation, Coates added “The top Montrachets, Chevaliers and Bâtards are wines to drink on bended knees, with heartfelt and humble thanks.”

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.