2004 Fleury Brut Cepages Blancs

Fleury in Courteron dates to 1895, when the Fleury family began growing grapes. The family sold their grapes to cooperatives until 1929, when Robert Fleury released the family’s first wines under their own label. Always ahead of the trends, the family began biodynamic farming in the late 1980s, converting all 35 acres to biodynamic farming by 1992. Today patriarch Jean-Pierre Fleury grows mostly Pinot Noir, with about 10 percent of his vineyards planted to Chardonnay. His adult son and daughter also work in the business. Fleury Champagnes are distinguished by being very fruit forward and balanced, along with persistent and pure mineral traces.

Champagne is a small, beautiful wine growing region northeast of Paris whose famous name is misused a million times a day. As wine enthusiasts and all French people are well aware, only sparkling wines produced in Champagne from grapes grown in Champagne can be called Champagne. Sparkling wines produced anywhere else, including in other parts of France, must be called something besides Champagne. Champagne producers are justifiably protective of their wines and the prestige associated with true Champagne. Though the region was growing grapes and making wines in ancient times, it began specializing in sparkling wine in the 17th century, when a Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Pérignon formulated a set guidelines to improve the quality of the local sparkling wines. Despite legends to the contrary, Dom Pérignon did not “invent” sparkling wine, but his rules about aggressive pruning, small yields and multiple pressings of the grapes were widely adopted, and by the 18th and 19th centuries Champagne had become the wine of choice in fashionable courts and palaces throughout Europe. Today there are 75,000 acres of vineyards in Champagne growing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Champagne’s official appellation system classifies villages as Grand Cru or Premier Cru, though there are also many excellent Champagnes that simply carry the regional appellation. Along with well-known international Champagne houses there are numerous so-called “producer Champagnes,” meaning wines made by families who, usually for several or more generations, have worked their own vineyards and produced Champagne only from their own grapes.