1999 Bernard Dugat-Py Chambertin

Bernard Dugat-Py is a 30-acre domaine in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. The Dugats have been winemakers in the region since the 17th century, and Bernard and his son Loic are the 12th and 13th generations to run the domain. Since 2004 the domain has been completely biodynamic. The domain produces Grand Crus, which are Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and Mazoyeres-Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus and Village wines. Dugat-Py’s wines are aged in a magnificent vaulted cellar that was built as part of an abbey in the 9th century. Recently the domaine has also made white wines, including a Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne. Clive Coates, the long-time wine critic and Burgundy authority, has noted that Bernard Dugat-Py “is a high-class establishment presided over by a charming couple.” The domain’s wines, he adds, “are very stylish and well-balanced.”

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.